Sign up for the Slatest to get the most insightful analysis, criticism, and advice out there, delivered to your inbox daily. Last summer, we here at Slate reported on a candy sensation that was sweeping—or, I guess more accurately, bumpily rolling—across the nation: Nerds Gummy Clusters. In case you have somehow dodged them, these are what many consider to be the platonic incarnation of Nerds—a soft, chewy gelatin sphere studded all over with the familiar hard, tart pellets. Clusters are an undeniable triumph of industrial food science, delivering, as a company spokesperson put it, “our original crunchy Nerds in a...